July 14, 2013


part three: Through the Altai Mountains to the top

text by ABu in collaboration with Kirsten Krätzel

part one: click here
part two: click here

On 8 June 2012 we left the lake and went towards the mighty Altai Mountains. We took the route via Mankhan on the east side of this famous mountain range. Our main goal was to find high altitude birds, but virtually the first birds we came across was a family party of Henderson’s Ground Jay (or Mongolian Ground Jay), a species all visiting birdwatchers want to see. The only youngster of the family was looking almost like its parents but could easily aged by the pale forecrown and the pale fringes of the crown feathers (glossy black without those fringes in adults). Though not a mountain bird of any kind, this observation was a good start for our ascent.

Young Henderson’s Ground Jay
Altai foothills, Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

Exploring our lunchtime valley, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

Himalayan Griffon, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

Brown Accentor, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

We basically followed a small stream, the Tugreg Gol, uphill and it took not long to bag our first real mountaineers during our lunch break. An adult or near-adult Himalayan Griffon was soaring above the valley while several Common Rock Thrushes showed their spectacular song flights. There was a number of singing Barred Warblers (not a true mountain bird), territorial Grey-necked Buntings, Golden Eagles, Brown Accentors and other beauties like Hoopoe and Isabelline Shrikes. No wonder that we returned to the table quite late.

Grey-necked Bunting, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

Chukar, back view, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

Chukar, front view, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © Thomas Langenberg

Male Spotted Great Rosefinch, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

Female Spotted Great Rosefinch,
Mongolian Altai, Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

As we went on (still following the same stream) we worked off our list of sought-after species. When we pitched our tents at the GPS coordinates 47,12149 N, 91,86492 E we had had already brilliant views of at least seven Spotted Great Rosefinches (aka Severtzov’s Rosefinch), Hill Pigeons, Chukar, a stunning male Rock Bunting (in Mongolia restricted to the west of the country, with not many reliable records), Black Redstarts, lots of White-winged Snowfinches, hordes of Rock Sparrows, a few Common Linnets and many “Pale Mountain” Twites (altaica). At sunset we witnessed a spectacular gathering of Rosy Starlings. About 1200 –1500 settled down for the night in the few poplar trees (Populus spec.) available.

Pale Martin, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

300 Rosy Starlings are visible in this photo,
Mongolian Altai, Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

Armin pitching the tent under the supervision of three cynics
and a lot of useful and even more not so useful comments,
Mongolian Altai, Jun 2012, © K. Krätzel

The starlings already left the trees before sunrise the next day (9 Jun) and we did this a little later, too (thanks to a pair of Golden Eagles and a Golden Oriole which we had to observe). Despite this short delay we were driving on a much degraded road rather early this day. Near the small village of Mönkhkhairkhan we found a colony of Pale Martins and some Blyth’s Pipits which were singing at the stream. Even here, at about 2200m a.s.l., some Mongolian Gulls were hanging out, hoping to find something left over by the vultures and/or dogs. Shortly before we found our next camp site (as mostly it was spontaneously chosen and this was our highest one at 3150m!) we stopped at a nice steep slope ‘cause we hoped to see our first Güldenstädt’s Redstarts for this trip there. Kirsten put up her scope and immediately had two of these large redstarts in view. Other goodies at this site were Himalayan Accentors (rather common) and a Bearded Vulture.

A lake as a mirror for the sky, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © K. Krätzel

“Skyfall”, Common Hoopoe, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

Male Güldenstädt’s Redstart, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © T. Langenberg

Cars and mirrors at our highest camp,
Mongolian Altai, Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim

Our highest camp, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Schneider

Bearded Vulture, Mongolian Altai,
Jun 2012, © A. Buchheim


We will continue with a very close-up picture of this
vulture and more mountain birds so watch this site!

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